City Jürgensen is understood for crafting a few of the most refined costume watches. Nevertheless, only a few weeks in the past, the unbiased Swiss/Danish watchmaker entered the luxurious sports activities watch class with the subtle Jürgensen One assortment. The mannequin stands out with a dynamic metal case with curves and fitted with a particular bracelet with oval-shaped interlinks. Among the many 4 references introduced, we took the chance at Baselworld to go hands-on with the Jürgensen One GMT, a modern and extremely practical twin time watch.
Capturing what folks need in a luxurious sports activities watch is not any small problem – it must be strong, water resistant, comfy and sensible, all of this in a chic manner. Briefly, a chic but sporty watch you’ll be able to put on on daily basis. On this respect, the addition of a second time zone is a helpful operate when travelling.
The City Jürgensen reference 5541 is the primary trendy dual-time watch of the model. It depends on the central arms for the native time and a sub-dial marked with 24 hours for the house time. Working the dual-time operate is simple and sensible – which isn’t all the time the case with GMT watches.
The brand new motion options native leaping hours, providing optimum flexibility for travellers. The central native hour hand might be set independently from the house reference time. Two pushers advance the hand in one-hour increments, in each instructions. These are positioned to allow them to be simply activated whereas the watch is on the wrist. As you’ll anticipate, the pusher at 10 o’clock advances the hand whereas the pusher at eight o’clock strikes it backwards. When touchdown in a brand new time zone, there isn’t any want to tug out the crown, merely regulate the native time by urgent the pushers – in the meantime, the sub-dial will nonetheless show the house time.
Manufactured as one piece, the beautifully crafted dial is guilloché (centre) and grené (periphery). It options facetted baton-style hour markers with luminescent materials, guaranteeing nice legibility in any scenario. On the house time subsidiary show, the 24 highlighted in crimson is a pleasant and sensible contact, permitting to determine at a look that this can be a 24-hour second time indication. The attractive openworked arms characteristic hand-rivetted centre canons. The minute hand and the slender second arms are barely bent at their extremity.
With the launch of the Jürgensen One assortment, City Jurgensen developed an automated model of its proprietary P4 motion and the GMT mechanism for this mannequin. Measuring 32mm in diameter, the automated P5 is completely calibrated to the dimension of the case. It delivers a sturdy 72-hour energy reserve with twin barrels. Beating at 3Hz, its giant variable inertia stability wheel is secured underneath a transversal bridge to supply optimum stability. The cease seconds mechanism permits for exact adjustment.
As with the case, bracelet and dial, the ending of the motion is high notch, with chamfered bridges, Geneva stripes radiating from the stability wheel and blued screws. The rotor is openworked with a UJ brand and a 22Ok gold outer winding part.
On the wrist, the Jurgensen One GMT wears comfortably and it doesn’t really feel as thick as its 13.8mm could recommend. The 41mm case and the bracelet provide nice wrist presence. This metal case provides 120m water-resistance. Just like the case, the distinctive bracelet is normal out of medical grade metal. Its authentic and complex geometry incorporates ogival-shaped centre hyperlinks. The best way the bracelet is articulated, combining an ideal stability between rigidity and suppleness, is as shocking as attention-grabbing. Finish hyperlinks of various size can be found, permitting the bracelet to be adjusted completely to the wrist. Final, the butterfly folding clasp incorporates a double press system to stop unintentional openings.
The Jürgensen One GMT (ref. 5541) actually stands out from the opposite dual-time watches available on the market. Like all City Jürgensen watches, it’s fastidiously thought-out and beautifully crafted. I can totally suggest that you just go hands-on with it, if solely simply to strive it on the wrist. Retail worth is CHF 33,500 and will probably be accessible as of Could 2019. For extra info, please go to www.urbanjurgensen.com.